I have been wanting to spend more time hiking and exploring the San Juan Mountains. They’re a 6+ hour drive from Denver so it’s ideal to spend a weekend or longer in the area. A few Sundays ago while I was relaxing on my couch (Sunday’s are my days for dreaming & planning) I decided to start detailing out a hiking and camping itinerary in the San Juans. I’ve had a trail list saved in my phone so I started mapping where it would be best to camp in proximity to the trailheads. After I mapped everything out, I decided to leave on the trip four days later. I kept the plan flexible and swapped hikes around based on weather windows and it turned out to be one of my favorite trips!
I loved this trip so much that two and a half weeks later I spent another five days hiking and camping in Southwestern Colorado. There is a comprehensive list of my hiking trail and camping recommendations at the bottom of this post.
Below is the itinerary I followed on my first trip which is not the most drive time efficient. I made modifications due to weather and my work schedule. The most efficient itinerary in my opinion would be to start in Silverton, then work your way to Ouray and Telluride before heading back to Denver but feel free to adjust the itinerary to what works best for your schedule.
Day 1: Denver to Leadville to Eagle (Total Drive Time: 3.5 hours)
I started my trip on a Friday afternoon. I got a last minute appointment at Melanzana to get a new hiking mid-layer so I drove to Leadville after work. I got my first “Melly” ten years ago and I haven’t found a mid-layer I like more. They’re the best and are quintessentially Colorado.
I continued on to Eagle where I stayed at my friends place for the night. She was joining me for my first night camping so we plotted our first hike. Looking at the weather for the week (and my work schedule), the best day to hike to Island Lake and Ice Lake via Ice Lakes Trail (6.9 miles, 2650 ft. gain) was going to be Saturday morning so we decided to leave at 3am to drive the 4 hours and 15 minutes to the trailhead.
Day 2: Eagle to Silverton to Ouray (Total Drive Time: 5-6 hours)
When driving from Ouray to Silverton (where Ice Lakes trail is located) you drive Million Dollar Highway. It may be the most beautiful drive in Colorado. This was my first time driving this highway and I was in awe watching the sunrise over the mountains. It made the long drive very enjoyable. There is great dispersed camping available on the road leading up to Ice Lakes trailhead (Forest Rd 585 S Mineral) which I would take advantage of next time.
We arrived at the trailhead at 7:15 am and hit the trail. The hike up to Island and Ice Lake has constant incline and spectacular views. This was a bucket list trail for me. We got to Island Lake and I loved the turquoise water. I took a dip in the lake and enjoyed the views before continuing on to Ice Lake. Ice Lake had a beautiful reflection of the mountains surrounding it. We ate breakfast and relaxed a bit before starting the hike back to the car.
I started using my hiking poles a little more this summer and I would recommend them on this trail. They helped with stability over water and rocky crossings as well as with the incline. The trail took us about 5-6 hours but you could easily spend 10 hours enjoying the views. I can’t overstate how beautiful this trail is, it is one of my favorite hikes in Colorado.
I had two nights at Amphitheater Campground already booked so we drove the hour back to Ouray after the hike. Amphitheater Campground can be reserved online in advance or you can try to get a first come first serve spot (cash or check only). This campground usually fills up quickly on summer weekends so I recommend booking in advance if possible.
In Ouray, we grabbed a beer at Ouray Brewery. They have an amazing rooftop where you can sit and people watch. We set up camp and got pizza at the Colorado Boy Southwest Pub. After dinner we hiked the Lower Cascade Falls Trail (0.3 miles, 111 ft. gain) and listened to live music at Goldbelt Bar and Grill before calling it a night and heading to bed.
Day 3: Ouray to Telluride (Total Drive Time: 2-3 hours)
The next morning, we decided to hike Blaine Basin (6 miles, 1519 ft. gain). I had a weekend planned to hike to Blue Lakes later in the summer and Blaine Basin starts at the same trailhead. There is quite a bit of dispersed camping available off E Dallas road which you take to get to the trailhead. There’s no cell service in this area which makes it an even better place to camp and fully disconnect!
The trail to Blaine Basin crossed the same river three times and I’m grateful I had my hiking poles as the water was moving fast and it was nice to have additional stability. The trail up to Blaine Basin meanders through the woods and opens up to the most beautiful valley (and I mean MOST beautiful) surrounded by mountains with a picturesque river running through it all. You can see waterfalls in the distance and we were the only ones there. I sat and listened to the water and felt so at peace looking at the incredible views. I would highly recommend adding this trail to your must hike list. It’s the perfect place to spend a few hours sitting, reading, picnicking, meditating, and enjoying the sunshine!
After Blaine Basin, my friend headed back home and I headed to Telluride. I took the gondola from town to the ski town area of Telluride and hung out at a coffee shop and waited out a rain storm. I took the gondola back to town, shopped around a bit and walked along the river that runs through town. Telluride’s one of my favorite towns to hang out and relax in.
I drove back to Ouray where I was camping at Amphitheater Campground again but I first stopped to shower at Ouray Hot Springs Pool. It’s $4 for a shower and has no shower time limit. I felt squeaky clean and was ready for my first night camping by myself.
Day 4: Ouray to Silverton (Total Drive Time: 2-3 hours)
It stormed most of the night and was cloudy when I woke early. I packed up camp and went to hike the Ouray Perimeter Trail (5.4 miles, 1500 ft. gain) before heading to a coffee shop in Silverton to work. My hike ended early when I got caught in a morning rain storm so I headed to Silverton and worked all day at Coffee Bear. There are phenomenal views of the surrounding mountains from Coffee Bear’s rooftop deck. They have great breakfast burritos (or breakfast bowls if you’re GF like me) and coffee. It rained the entire day so it was an easy day to work indoors. In the early evening, it stopped raining and I walked around the town of Silverton. I picked up a used book at a shop I stopped by. I grabbed Anne Frank: Diary of a Young Girl which I couldn’t believe I hadn’t read. Then I drove to my new campsite at Big Molas Lake Campground to setup camp.
This campground features a big lake with mountains surrounding it, little cell service and various hiking trails that start right near the campground. I decided to hike Molas Lake Loop Trail (1.8 miles, 209 ft. gain) after I set up camp. I had dinner, read my new book by the lake and watched sunset over the mountains. This day redefined remote work for me. It was my dream work day and I was excited to be able to mix work with doing things that bring me so much joy.
Day 5: Silverton (Total Drive Time: <1 hour)
There were thunderstorms all night. The booming thunder was right above me and lighting strikes were happening every 30 seconds for over an hour. It was pouring rain and I was worried I should not be in my tent. I finally fell asleep and slept soundly the last two hours of the night. Obviously, I survived the night but it was a close one haha!
When I woke up, I hiked around Molas Lake for sunrise. I got ready and headed back to Coffee Bear to work for the day. The sun came out and I was excited to continue my hiking journey after work.
I decided to hike Colorado Trail above Little Molas Lake (5.2 miles, 810 ft. gain) after work. I was blown away by the views the entire hike. It was the most perfect evening on the trail and the weather was beautiful. This trail is also a must do. I headed back to camp and read my book in my hammock before showering at the campground and getting ready for bed. Molas Lake Campground has showers for $5 for 4 minutes. After, I watched sunset over Molas Lake and went to bed. I felt so content, peaceful and joyful being present in nature without cell service. It was such a simple and beautiful day.
Day 6: Silverton to Denver (Total Drive Time: 6-7 hours)
The next morning I woke up, packed up camp, walked around Molas Lake for sunrise and started my drive back to Denver. I had afternoon meetings so I decided to hit the road early. I drove the four and a half hours to Eagle where I stopped around 10:30 am for some work meetings. I took CO-92 to CO-133 which makes for a very scenic drive from Delta to Carbondale. There are also many farms you can stop at to get fresh produce and meat in this area. I drove the last two hours home on I-70 and finished out my work day. I was very grateful to have had such an amazing trip exploring Southwestern Colorado and to check off quite a few trails on my bucket list.
See below for my full list (for now) of hiking trail and camping options I recommend in Southwest Colorado. Enjoy your time in these beautiful places and be sure to follow Leave No Trace principles.
Hannah’s Trail List- Ouray
- Mears Trail (3.9 miles, 150 ft. gain)
- Ouray Perimeter Trail (5.4 miles, 1500 ft. gain)
- Sutton/Neosho Mine Trail (4.5 miles, 1282 ft. gain)
- Lower Cascade Falls Trail (0.3 miles, 111 ft. gain)
- Chief Ouray Mine via Upper Cascade Falls Trail (4.3 miles, 1955 ft. gain)
- Silvershield Trail (4.1 miles, 1702 ft. gain)
Hannah’s Trail List- Silverton
- Island Lake and Ice Lake via Ice Lakes Trail (6.9 miles, 2650 ft. gain)
- V2 and Ice Lake Basin (8.7 miles, 3490 ft. gain)
- Columbine Lake Trail #509 (6.9 miles, 2536 ft. gain)
- Colorado Trail above Little Molas Lake (5.2 miles, 810 ft. gain)
- Crater Lake Trail (11.1 miles, 2043 ft. gain)
- Highland Mary Lake Trail (4.9 miles, 1414 ft. gain)
- Castle Rock via Elbert Creek Trail (5.3 miles, 1666 ft. gain)
- Molas Lake Loop Trail (1.8 miles, 209 ft. gain)
Hannah’s Trail List- Telluride
- Blaine Basin (6 miles, 1519 ft. gain)
- Lower, Middle and Upper Blue Lakes via Blue Lakes Trail (8.6 miles, 2506 ft. gain)
- Blue Lake via Bridal Veil Trail #636 (5.9 miles, 1866 ft. gain)
- Bridal Veil Falls, Black Bear Pass Loop (3 miles, 862 ft. gain)
- Bear Creek Falls via Bear Creek Trail (4.5 miles, 1092 ft. gain)
- See Forever to Wasatch Connection to Bear Creek (9.2 miles, 1768 ft. gain)
Camping near Ouray, Silverton and Telluride (Note: this is not a comprehensive list)
- Amphitheater Campground – Ouray
- South Mineral Campground– Silverton
- Dispersed camping off Forest Rd 585 S Mineral (free): Dispersed camping along Forest Rd. 585 is allowed only in designated camping areas which include Anvil, Bear and Sultan Camping Areas. Do not camp within 100 ft of any water source. Respect posted directions and instructions. Be aware that this area is extremely busy (source)- Silverton
- Molas Lake Campground– Silverton
- Little Molas Lake Campground (free)- Silverton
- Dispersed camping off E Dallas Rd (free) up to Lower, Middle and Upper Blue Lakes via Blue Lakes trailhead- use previously established sites designated with a fire ring- Telluride
Until the next tale… Happy trails.
-Hannah
Tales of My Trails 
Sounds like so much fun. Wish I was with you!
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Me too, mom 🙂
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